Note: I wrote this in 2021 and never finished it. I kept it as close to the original as possible, however, that means some of the references are no longer correct or current. See my notes at the end for more info.
Driving through Arlington today, a routine trip became a vivid history tour. After fifteen years here, I’m finally getting excited about this city.
Cooper Street is usually a headache, but today, I embraced the traffic. There are nearly 400,000 people in this city—a testament to our growth and achievements—and the 13-mile Cooper Street is one of the main arteries through town. I passed over I-20 and the Parks Mall. I never thought a shopping mall would be impactful, but it was one of the first significant shopping centers in South Arlington. It helped form the retail corridor along I-20, which has grown immensely in the last 30 years.
Back on Cooper, past Johnson Station Cemetery on Mayfield where many local pioneers are buried, Arlington High was buzzing as school let out. Bethany Café is across the street, one of my favorite local restaurants, and I thought about later stopping by for a Black Tea Latte.
Passing by UTA, I wondered if they offered a local history class. I’d find that interesting. I noticed “Doug Russell Road,” not realizing there was a street named for him. I recently learned that he won two gold medals in the 1968 Olympics as a swimmer. I knew there was a park named for him because it’s where the the historic Berachah Home Cemetery is located.
I reached downtown and turned onto Abram Street, knowing the interurban tracks used to be there. I also reminded myself that it wasn’t Abrams Street, as I had once thought, and had been 100% sure of when I bet my wife on the name. Speaking of Mrs. Sullivan, The Thornton Inn is also on Abram Street, where we stayed on our wedding night nearly six years ago.
I passed J.R. Bentley’s, an English pub and a local favorite since 1979, although I recently went there for the first time. They pour a perfect pint of Guinness, and a return trip must be taken soon. I also passed Mission Arlington, a cherished non-profit organization celebrating its 35th anniversary. I thought of founder Tillie Burgin, who recently turned 80 and is still active in running the organization.
While stopped at Abram and Center Streets, I saw the bronze bust and Texas Historical Marker for Andrew Hayter, the Father of Arlington. It’s located at Levitt Pavilion and part of Founders Plaza. I quickly tested myself to see if I could remember the six founding families represented there. I went blank after five—Cooper, Ditto, Rankin, Rose, and Collins—somehow forgetting Matlock. But, I was planning on going to Arlington Cemetery later and I know a few Matlocks are buried there. I’ll have to locate them and pay my respects. I was mostly going to the adjacent Parkdale Cemetery, though, to photograph Dr. Zack Bobo’s headstone for an upcoming blog post. I just finished reading his memoir and enjoyed his stories about old Arlington.
I couldn’t help but notice City Hall. Well, how can you miss it? It’s a behemoth of a building with brutalist architecture. I love the bulky and boxy look of it. It’s one of my favorite buildings to photograph because you can do creative things with the editing. Some people don’t like it, but I think it’s beautiful—in an ugly-duckling sort of way.
I arrived at my destination, the George W. Hawkes downtown library, to work for a few hours. I walked past the conference room where a few weeks ago I heard local historian O.K. Carter speak about the Bankhead Highway. That reminded me of my birthday road trip earlier this year, traveling mostly along the Bankhead Highway from Arlington to Abilene, which was a fun and adventurous trek back in time. During the program, he referred to me as “heir-apparent”—seemingly to the local history throne—which I took as a hell of an endorsement and a sign to keep going in my efforts.
I went to the library’s third floor where the Local History and Genealogy room is located. Other than Fielder Museum and Knapp Heritage Park, it’s one of the best places in Arlington for local history. I could spend hours there, but didn’t have time for that today. Ah, a few minutes wouldn’t hurt.
After browsing the books and displays, I reluctantly exited, heading to the windows where I usually sit. I admired the cityscape outside, reflecting on my journey. In a matter of 5 miles and 20 minutes, I had experienced things that many people probably didn’t know about, which was hugely satisfying and exciting. It was an awesome trip through local history—and also past, present, and future related to Arlington—and I’m learning enough to remember and put things together. I’m getting obsessed with local history and there’s much more to learn. I have to admit, Arlington has a fascinating history, and I’m proud to live here.
Author’s Notes for 2026:
- Arlington now has over 400,000 people
- J.R. Bentley’s closed in 2023 without much fanfare
- Mission Arlington opened in 1986 and is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year
Blog post by Jason S. Sullivan, 01-09-26 (originally written in 2021)
Jason S. Sullivan 